DIY House Headboard for the Kids Room

I am sorry I am so late to actually publishing this post, but it’s been a busy few weeks leading up to Christmas and New Year. But hey, better late than never, right? So let’s start the new year with my step to step DIY tutorial on how you can build your own house headboard!

Feel free to ask me any questions about things that might be unclear!

Happy building!

My original sketch of what I wanted to achieve. I knew I wanted a three-dimensional headboard that supports itself standing, with the option to attach a shelf & lamp.

Emma’s bed is 1200mm wide, so the house had to be tad wider. I aimed for 1220mm, to have 10mm on each side snug fitting around the floor bed. Height is really up to everyone, but I wanted her to be able to stand without immediately knocking her head. It also depended on blank I could find for the project.

diy house headboard

Items needed:

  • Wooden boards: I used 1200mm x 400 mm and cut them into smaller 200mm wide pieces each

  • Wooden beams to secure the back board vertically (images about this below)

  • Powerdrill

  • Screws

  • Money coins (for spacing)

  • Wood glue (for shelving)

  • Powersaw

  • Measurment Stick

  • Protractor


STEP 1 : Measure & Cut

This step is probably the one you should pay most attention on. Here you really decided if your headboard will fit around the bed, so rather measure three times before cutting anything ( I am speaking from experience…).

Since the boards available to me, in the best price range, only came in a length of 1200mm but I ideally wanted a height of 1400-1500mm, I decided to stack the horizontally, you know like a shiplap wall.

STEP 2: Secure The Backboard

Lay the wooden beams in the opposite direction, making sure the reach from one to the other end.

STEP 3: Space The Boards & Construct the backwall

Use now the money coins as spacers between the blanks. I love this look, as it gives the feeling of rustic shed. I simply put the money in the slits and then attached the wooden beams to the boards. This I repeated all the way until the board was secured.

Ps: Don’t forget to take money out again, otherwise this is gonna be more expensive than it has to be 😉

Et Voila! You got yourself the back board!

I love that it give you that shiplab-feeling. I think it would also look splendid if you decided to paint the house.

STEP 4: Cut The Angles for the sides & Roof

If there is a difficult part of this build, this will be it. To have a well fitting roof, you need to know how to cut at an angle, as well as figure out what angle you need. The angles are for the back & sideboard wall, where to roof lays on, as well as the roof itself, where it meets in the middle. I aimed for a 35 degree angle, as this was the best to have a good looking roof, where my boards with long enough.

STEP 5: Walls & Shelf

For the side wall, I used ready to buy boards with the measurements of 1200x400mm. To have stable sidewalls, I used bracket for support as well as attached a shelf on the backwall, which in turn is attached (as stabilizer if you wish) to the sidewall.

The shelf itself is just 1200mm wood plan with a small plank, attached to the front of it, with wood glue . I am not expecting it hold a lot of weight, but some books and pictures for display.

Where the shelf meets the sidewall, and sidewalls the back, I used extra screws to fixate everything together. Ideally you would put screws in angle into the wood to minimize breakage of the wood, but since I didn’t have tools (or patience to fix myself on the DIY way) I just made sure to hit the middle each board to not break it, when screwing in from the back and side ( in the pictures below you can see the screws from the outside).

STEP 6: The Roof

Now that the house is almost standing, it’s time to set the roof. In step 4 you have already prepared the boards for it. If you done a good job, there is nothing more rewarding than having them fit perfectly onto the angle cut boards and meet in the middle of roof. Don’t worry I had to have a few tries before it almost fit. Yes I say almost, because it could definitely have been better!, but sometimes it’s just not worth fighting those tiny battles.

But even though it could always be better, I am quite proud of how well everything fits together, considering the limited amount of tools used.

STEP 7: Finishing Touches

This Step can include as many things as you wish. First step though is to give it a good sanding! We don’t want any splinters or sharp edges, where kids play, right? After you have done that wipe it down with a damp cloth to get all the dust off. Sawdust is by far the worst dust to have in a home as it stick to everything. Now you can either put a varnish on, leave it natural (like I did) or even paint to your liking. That is probably why I am such a fan of wood as a material – it so versatile and can be adapted at any given point.

Extra Tip: Since the house will most likely lean against a wall, I would attach some stick-on floor (and in this case wall) protector to not damage paint or leave scratches.

And that was about it! All in all it took me about 6 hours from start to finish and approx. 800 SEK (100USD) in material costs. Well worth it!

EDIT: I have now also added a reading lamp to the house, for cozy evening hours. Real simple – buy a wall lamp (I got the Hektar from IKEA) and attach it to the back wall. If you have a cable like mine has, saw a hole in the back to lead it to your electrical outlet.

If you have any questions about this DIY or want my help in fixing your kids room just send me a message!

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